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Meets reports 2011
Nant Peris Meet 1st – 3rd July PDF Print E-mail
Meets Reports - Meets reports 2011
Written by Stewart Herbert   
Sunday, 28 August 2011 22:30
A classic weekend, with amazing weather throughout. There were a few lucky ones that managed to get away early and climb on the Friday. John Holden, Dennis English and Helen Costello along with Martin Smith and his friend Stuart headed up to Dinas Cromlech. Both teams climbed Spiral Stairs and Flying Buttress. John was delighted to find he had mistakenly climbed part of an E1. Martin and Stuart also climbed Sabre Cut while the others had lunch. Dave Ferguson and Ian Armstrong also got a couple of routes in, calling off at Lower Pen Trwyn to tick off two bolted routes. Skin Game and Golden Pond.
The early sunrise and blue skies Saturday morning sparked everyone off to an early start, the hut empty before 8am. Dave and Ian set off early up to Cloggy, climbing Great Slab, Easy Rider and Curving Crack. The most popular crag of the day was Dinas Mot where Phil Wilkinson and Sue Greenwood climbed Western Rib. Dave Armstrong who hadn't lead a climb for ten years teamed up with Harmony Smith to do the classic Diagonal, Direct Route and Loraine. Simon Hall climbed with Tim Millen and ticking off Loraine, Super Direct and the first pitch of Nexus (between by the second pitch). Martin Smith and Dennis English were the last two to head up to Dinas Mot, after climbing The Cracks and Western Slab they headed over to Grochan to bag the classic VS Nea. John Holden and Helen Costello headed up into Cyrn Las for the uber classic Main Wall. They managed to climb in the sun all day with Helen thoroughly enjoying the magnificent slab on pitch 5. Phil Blanchard and possible new member Johnny Wilson climbed a combination of Mur Y Niwl and Pinnacle Wall on Craig Yr Ysfa, both superb mountain routes.
Sunday was another stunning morning with almost everyone raring to go, even after the drinking the night before. Inspired by Dave and Ian's enthusiasm Sue and Phil set off for Cloggy. They thought about giving Mid Summer's Nights Dream E6 6a a shot (Dave Armstrong's 1977/78 brain child) but decided to mince up the amazing rock on Great Slab. Phil and Johnny drove round to Tryfan to do another good mountain VS Belleview Bastion. Dave and Ian wandered up to Idwal Slabs climbing Hope, Javelin Buttress and Groove Above. Helen, Dennis, John and Martin had a more leisurely rise and headed for another classic rock tick Creag Dhu Wall at Tremadog.
Tim and Simon were desperate to have a go on the slate so they headed for Bus Stop Quarry with Dave and Harmony. Both teams climbed a couple of bolted routes, Equinox, Solstice, Fools Gold and half on Nat Attack before bailing because the footholds were like glass.

Thanks to everyone for a great weekend climbing in the sun. Let's hope there are more meets like it.

 
Skye Meet 27-29 May PDF Print E-mail
Meets Reports - Meets reports 2011
Written by Stewart Herbert   
Wednesday, 22 June 2011 20:51
The weather was forecast wet and windy, you have to live in hope, some day you may go there and see the Cuillins and perhaps climb on them, join the queue for Cioch Direct, it is featured in "Classic Rock" and is the Mecca of Coire Lagan.

Saturday was blowing a gale and 5 of us set off for the Quiraings, Harmony, Paula, Sue, John, and myself, we visited Kilt Rock on the way there, parked at the pass above Brogaig and set off along the path below the cliffs, and wandered beneath the various buttresses, climbed up to The Table, had lunch, then carried on to the coll. It was blowing a gale and as we would be walking into it , going over the top was considered too risky ; we might have to report that Sue had 'Gone with the wind' and so it was decided to return by the lower path back to the pass.

The A team of Phil and Will went off to the Cuillins to do desperate things and returned safely.

Sunday there was a reluctance to start, in the party something was mentioned about reading the Sunday newspapers, Paula mentioned Macleod`s Maidens and it turned out an excellent choice for the day, even the A team condescended to join us.

The walk starts at Orbost and goes in a southward direction towards Idrigill, which may have been an hamlet before the clearances but now nothing more than a pile of stones, carries on to Idrigill Point and Macleod's Maidens, there was much water about, the rain had stopped except for the odd heavy shower, the first burn was quite difficult to cross. When we reached the headland, we saw the Maidens which are sea stacks and very impressive, the sea crashing on the rocks below was sending spray high in the air, this was landing on the grass like soap bubbles. I am not a sea person perhaps it is because of the sailors I have met who seem to be a cross between Captain Birds Eye and Walter Mitty. I did enjoy the walk(about 11 miles ) and the views and would do it again.

I cannot remember how many places were booked, I understand there were a few "absent friends" as you might say, I know it`s a long way, however the accommodation is so good it takes the sting out of the journey, also the company was good, and they enjoyed the wine John and I brought.
The last day, Monday, dawned clear and sunny at last. We lost the horrendous wind of Saturday and Sunday so it seemed a good chance to catch the views before we headed home, knowing we would not be back till after 10 p.m. The second Corbet beckoned..Glamaig, next to the main road so no long walk in, just straight up to the col, a short scramble up some slightly dubious rock (Will collected quite a sizable souvenir piece which would have damaged a head below; no-one in sight at all fortunately) and then on to the summit with spectacular views of the Black and Red Cuillin, islands all round and sea in all directions. A lovely ridge brought us back to see the car far below so we just headed straight down steepish grassy slopes, avoiding a large black bull. Excellent even if there was no actual climbing. Enough to warrant a stop at the Good Food place in Tyndrum. Will quoted aptly that we had seen "a black crown in a sea of green and blue jewels".

 
Duddon Valley 14-5th May PDF Print E-mail
Meets Reports - Meets reports 2011
Written by Stewart Herbert   
Wednesday, 22 June 2011 20:46
High Wallowbarrow Farm camping barn - what a magical place to stay and only 5 intrepid members travelling from far flung places took the gamble with the weather. It paid off - and following a very convivial evening in the pub, we made the short walk to the crag the next morning - under grey skies but dry until late in afternoon.

Thomas got us all warmed up and after Nameless John and Martin went off in search of adventure on the lower crag without machetes - it was like Venezuela according to Martin. We did some excellent V.S's and finally got rained on on the final pitch of Nameless, which was no hardship as we scampered down to the hut and a blazing log fire and gin and tonics - how civilised is that! we had a wine and beer lake to drink and chilli and puddings to scoff and finally slept soundly woken only by the Duddon valley champion cock crowing competition at dawn.

A steady drizzle next morning saw Dawn shooting off home to bike in the errr rain! and Martin mysteriously escaping underground in Ingleton. Mike, John and I went for an exploratory walk around the valley - beautiful even in the rain.

Last Updated on Tuesday, 19 July 2011 21:14
 
Peak District April 15-17th April PDF Print E-mail
Meets Reports - Meets reports 2011
Written by Stewart Herbert   
Wednesday, 22 June 2011 20:41

A full house of members and friends enjoyed a fine weekend of climbing. The Popular End of Stanage was one of the venues on Saturday. It was the first time on grit for the Bulman brothers and they acquitted themselves well. Steve shouldered most of the leading to spare Dan`s back, gratefully acknowledged by Dan and partner, Ellen. Others such as Martin Smith and friends and Phil and Sue, eventually got used to the rock and knocked off some V.S.s

Meanwhile, Alan was holding a master class at Froggatt, shinning up protectionless E2 slabs to the delight of Helen and Charlie who eagerly followed. Seeking out more adventures, Ian and Gary shifted from Froggatt to Curbar, but were careful to stay within their comfort zone for maximum enjoyment. It was a perfect day for climbing and not over crowded, even quiet at Froggatt.

Sunday arrived with another cloudless sky so there was no excuse for a lie in this time. Everyone was in buoyant mood, showing no after effects from the night before. Stanage again was the destination with the group strung out from High Neb to the Popular End.

Phil and Sue opted for revisiting the limestone and it turned into a tale of 2 Stoneys. One a delightful step by step ascent to heaven, the other a descent into hell! Erasor VS 4b4c finds its way cheekily up a stunning buttress with high Es close at hand. The holds were good, protection safe (contrary to the guide book description ) and the only polish was on the linking traverse that utilises the Pendulum girdle.
At the far end of Stoney Middleton, Triglyph hosts 3 crack routes. We chose "What the Hell" VS 4c as it was a "fine route". About 5 metres up, I had had enough, scared off by a mega steep, slippery crack requiring a shed full of big gear. Ashamed to say "Morning Crack" got the same response. It was such a lovely spot and not wanting to admit defeat and with no-one about, we sneaked up and set up a top rope. Lo and behold, I still could not get up.  Probably any strong veteran would say "Just jam it ,lad!" Give me "Conclusion" any day!
A good weekend all round and lots left to discover for next year in Derbyshire`s unique landscape

 
Glen Coe March 25th - 27th 2011 PDF Print E-mail
Meets Reports - Meets reports 2011
Written by Stewart Herbert   
Wednesday, 22 June 2011 20:34
14 members gathered at Torren Cottages in Glen Coe in March. On Saturday, most set off for a long walk in to the receding snow line on the Ben; routes included Hadrian's Wall, Smiths Route, Tower Scoop, and Good Friday Climb. Phil and Sue tackled Left Twin on Aonach Mor and Will and Stewart walked the Aonach Eagach Ridge.

Saturday 26th Aonach Eagach
Saturday. Six O'clock AM. A more reasonable hour than for some, saw the day start with bacon butties and strong coffee. Starting from the car park just before seven O'clock, the weather looked promising if
a little undecided; an inversion was forming to the east of the Glen and as we ascended saw it creep westward down the valley and Will scrambling on the Aonach Eagach © Stewart Herbert engulf the climbs on Stob Corrie nan Lochan. Taking to the left route and a
scramble, two hours saw us at An Bodach and a well deserved tea break. The 'stroll'
along the ridge took us past the cairn of Maell Dearg without us realising that we Aonach Eagach © Stewart Herbert
had tick off a Munro. Dry conditions under foot with only a few snow patched along the path allowed us to negotiate the ridge without the need for any gear and five and a half hours saw us at the summit of Stob Corrie Leith.

A further hour and a half saw us at the summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh with the views hidden in the mist. Some excellent navigation by Will in the mist took us to the decent path and back to the road in eight and a half hours.

Sunday 27th 
Phil and Sue headed south to Loch Lomond and walked the Ptarmican Ridge to the munro while Tim, Vicky, Ray and Will climbed Spartan Slabs on Etive Slabs.

 
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