Home Members' Articles Holidays Phil and Sue Jan 9-14th 2010
Phil and Sue Jan 9-14th 2010 PDF Print E-mail
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Written by Sue Greenwood   
Thursday, 04 February 2010 22:27

Phil in number 6 gully, Aonach Dubh © Sue GreenwoodDo you really want to hear this? No-one else has said what they have been up to for the record but Brown Cove Crag, Raven Crag Gully, Grey Mares Tail, Aire Force, some climbs near Tebay (Brian and Tony Stoddart) are just a few of the routes that have been enthused about since Christmas.

By a lucky chance, Phil and I had booked for Scotland just when some of the amazing lower routes were "in". Inspired by Tony Morley and Steve's experience of Eas Anie, near Tyndrum, we spent a night at the Wigwams and rose very early to be first on 3 beautiful  pitches of good solid ice. We knew from meeting delayed climbers from the previous day that internet info had increased the popularity of a lovely climb, accessible without a huge walk up to it. We captured the Corbet above, Ben Chuirn for good measure and met folk on the way down who had only managed pitch one because of the queues and envied our early start in the dark.

The next day ,we arrived a bit late for Steall Waterfall, Grade 3 ***, at the end of Glen Nevis, after digging the car out at Tulloch and having to park by the bridge as the road was too icy to drive. In fact we cramponed all the way back on the road. We were nearly the last pair at Steall which again looked stupendous. I thought I must already be in Norway. Because it was so wide, a variety of routes was possible so we did not have to wait and the ice was good for ice screw belays. Fabulous, as John Holden would say. Mind....the bag did feel a little bit weighty on the march back along the road but very well worth it.

From useful chat, we learned of "Smoking the White Owl" on the Allta nah- Aire fall on Aonach More. High and worrying winds were forecast for this day but this route was on the good side so we only had mouthfuls of spin drift on the climb. The top pitch was superb with fluted columns of icicle type ice, completed by some easy scrambling on to the mountain. The gondola had stopped due to the gusts so I hung on to Phil and we toppled our way down the path to the calm of the trees. Another spectacular day! Could there be any more?

Winds were still forecast so the next day, called a "Rest day" because we took only crampons, axes, helmets and slings, we walked into remote Glenfinnan and chanced our luck on a frozen stream until we felt luck might run out along with the dodgy ice so escaped up a very steep, snowy side, thankful for good axes. A very lovely area...no-one there at all.

A man from Keswick on Steall mentioned that Number 6 was "fat" which meant it had to be done before it slimmed. So the final day was in Glencoe on Aonach Dubh, climbing just behind Alan Kymber on this interesting gully where we encountered all types of ice. On one section, we were pleased to be fairly light and used our axes tentatively. The next day there might not have been much at all. On another crux part, I was too tentative not having encountered such crystal ice before, and I tested the belayer and his ice screws. Fortunately he was not fishing for chocolate at that moment, so I simply descended back to the ledge which I then shot up, having already removed the ice screws and knowing how to bash my axes in this time!  We only realised after we had done it that the crux was over and only a steep  wall and then some turf type ledges remained. The descent was really pleasant and fitted the rest of the day, quietened by softly falling very fine snow throughout.

All so beautiful, a wonderful window of opportunity to do climbs not usually in condition although there are photos in guide books.

 

Last Updated on Thursday, 04 February 2010 22:39
 
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